"Intambo ejulile" yigama lokuthi emakhulwini eminyaka ajabulisa izingqondo zabantu futhi libangele umona kwabesifazane. Ungaxhumana ngayo ngezindlela ezihlukile, kepha akekho oyophikisana nokuthi ezinhlakeni eziningi zomlando le "nto nto" yadlala indima yayo ebalulekile.
Kusho ukuthini?
Ngolimi lwesiFulentshi, igama elithi "Décolleté" linokuhunyushwa okungokoqobo okungokoqobo kwentamo "ngentamo enqunyiwe" noma "ngaphandle kwentamo." Kepha akudingekile ukumqonda ngomqondo ongokoqobo, njengoba kubonisa kuphela izinto zekhabethe labesifazane. I-excline iyisiketi esiphezulu sezingubo zowesifazane, esivula kancane amahlombe akhe, isifuba noma zombili izingxenye zomzimba.Uma sikhuluma ngokusetshenziswa kwentambo nencazelo yaso, khona-ke imiqondo yobuhle engokomzimba, ama-aesthetics, i-erotica kanye ne-sensiality iza kuqala.
Kuqale konke kanjani ...
Naphezu kweqiniso lokuthi iDevelit (ekuqondeni kwanamuhla kwaleli gama) avele ngekhulu le-XIV, "indlela" yokugqoka abesifazane yaqala ukusetshenziswa eGibhithe lasendulo. Kulesi simo se-antique, abesifazane bazo zonke izigaba zeNhlangano babeyingubo yaseCalazirisi, cishe bakhulume ngokuphelele. Ukuze uthole isimo sempucuko esinjalo, lapho "umsebenzi omkhulu kakhulu emhlabeni" wasuswa khona nakanjani, ukusetshenziswa kwezingubo ezifanayo.
Ukusebenza ngokugcwele entanyeni ezingutsheni zabesifazane, igama elithi "umugqa" waqala eYurophu. Ukugqoka ngentambo esetshenziswa kanye nezinkantolo zeNdlovukazi yaseFrance kanye nonkosikazi kaCharles VI Uhla - Isabella Babarian. Lo, uhulumeni ongathandeki ngokweqile akazange athande abantu ngenxa yendlela yakhe yokuphila futhi abachithekayo. Kepha ngo-Isabelle, intambo yayinokubukeka okuningana noma okuningana. Kwakuwukulunga unxande futhi kwavula indawo encane yomzimba, ngaphansi kwentamo nangaphezulu komhlane.
Eminyakeni embalwa eyalandela, ubukhulu bama-French laddies kancane kancane kancane, ngenkathi u-Agnes SOREL, inkosi ethandekayo yaseFrance Karl VII, ayiphuphunga enye yamabele. Ngalesi simo, kwavela ekuphendukeni kwasobala kwasobala, kwabamba iqhaza kumabha wezwe kanye nokwamukela. Cishe bonke abaphathi bamakhaya kanye nezintokazi ezinhle basekele u-Agnes, egqoka ingubo yakhe.
Intambo e-renaissance epoch
Esikhathini se-Renaissance Fashion on Delollet kancane yathuthela kwamanye amazwe aseYurophu. Isibonelo, e-Italy (amadolobha ahlukene), "ubuhle obuziwayo kanye namabhubesi wezwe kanye ne-voyetta vespucci nabanye.
Kuyathakazelisa ukuthi iSpain ilwele lokhu kokugcina ku-neckline. Abefundisi badlalwa lapha futhi kwesinye isikhathi begqoke ukusika okuphezulu ngengubo benqatshelwe nhlobo. Ngezinyathelo ezengeziwe zokuphepha, ama-collors anobuningi agcwele ukugqoka.
Esikhathini esivela ku-XV kuya ku-XVII, abamele amagceke amaningi aseYurophu babelindelwe izindlela zokuhlobisa izingubo zabesifazane esifubeni. Kwakunezinhlobo ezahlukahlukene ze- "Windows" (zigqokwa ngu-Ekaterina Medici), futhi imigexo exande yakhiwa ngama-collars aphezulu nge-lace (lokhu kwagqoka indlovukazi yaseFrance kanye neNdlovukazi yesiNgisi ka-Elizabeth I).
Ngesikhathi sekhulu leminyaka (1715-1770), i-decolte yathathwa cishe kubo bonke abesifazane hhayi eYurophu kuphela, kodwa nasembusweni waseRussia. Bangahambisana ngazo zonke izinhlobo zokuhlobisa, ezisukela ngemibala futhi ziphelile ngeminsalo. Lesi sikhathi, esasiphawulwa ukuthuthukiswa okusheshayo komkhakha wokuzijabulisa, i- "Cult Of Toom", Ukuzilangazelela kanye nokukhetha.
Khombisa phezulu kwesifuba sowesifazane kwakucatshangwa ukuthi kuhlonishwe. Lokhu kuqinisekiswa yizithombe eziningi zebhubesi lezenkolo yalesosikhathi. Kwakukhulunywa ngekhulu le-XVII lapho i-Empress of Elizabeth i Petrovna no-Catherine II, okuthi, ngaphandle kokuqina okujulile nangokuhlambalaza, azange acabange ngempilo yabo eRussia.
Hhayi kubo bonke
Ngekhulu le-XIX, okuthandwa yi-ncoulgeois. UDelollete wayegqoke ngokungajwayelekile, ngezikhathi ezithile futhi kuya ngesikhathi sosuku.
Uma usuku lowesifazane ogqoke izingubo ezivaliwe, khona-ke kusihlwa ngosuku lwakwazi ukugqoka ingubo ngentambo. Ngalesi sikhathi, ithoni yabuza abalingisi bakaRashel, u-Eleanor Duza, uSara Bernard, uLily Langgree nabanye.
Futhi kuthiwani ngentambo namuhla?
Ukunakwa okukhethekile kufanele kufanelwe ikhulu le-XX nangesikhathi esisha. Kusukela ekuqaleni kwalelikhulu leminyaka, imfashini ayikashintshi imitha yentuthuko yabo. Izimpi zezwe lokuqala nezesibili zathonya elikhulu kuyo. Esikhathini sasebukhosini soMbuso WaseRussia, ukuthandwa kwentambo kukhule kube yileveli engakaze kubonwe, kodwa ngokushesha "kwaphuma" lapho kwenzeka khona isikhundla sombuso.
I-Corsets yavalwa kancane kancane futhi ama-bras avumela amantombazane agqoke zonke izinhlobo zezingubo. Kwakuyisiqalo salesi singuquko sezocansi. Sika izigqoko zabesifazane, manje bese sishintsha indawo yaso, sisuse esifubeni sakhe emhlane nangokuphambene nalokho.
Ukunakwa kwakunamathiselwe ekuwohlokeni kuma-50s naku-1980s, lapho imboni yamafilimu ithuthuka ngamandla. Izingubo ezinama-decollete zigqoke njalo uMarilyn Monroe, Madonna, Ornell Muti, uJane Russell, uSophie Loren, uGina Loren, uGina Loren, uBridget Bardo nabanye abaningi.
Ekupheleni kwekhulu lama-20, kunentando yeningi esetshenziswayo yentambo. Ukugqoka okunjalo abesifazane banamuhla bakubeka, beqhubekela phambili kulesi simo nangezinhloso ezithile.
Intambo ye-neckline isiphenduke inhlabathi amahlazo. Kepha bekukhona emlandweni kanye nezimo eziyizinkulu eziyishumi eziyingozi zezikhathi ezihlukile ezaziletha imfashini kuze kube sekufeni.