Umfana olula waseBelarusian-American American Kolya Sulima utshela okubukeka kwe-surfing. Kubukeka kakhulu kubo bonke uthando.
UWetsuit ngathenga ngaphandle kokufanele lapho sihambahamba ezungeze idolobha siyofuna ifenisha. Ungibize namashumi amathathu. Ngisakholelwa ukuthi kwaqhamuka, phela, ukuthengwa komuntu onobungane - izithelo ezimbi: zicabange ukuthi udinga amahlandla amathathu noma amane ukuthola umuntu oseduze, embonini eshisayo. Bese uphuma.
Ngokungeziwe ebhuthini nemvunulo, ngisenesigqoko esine-visor emfushane, futhi, kusuka e-penorezine. Ushiya avule ingxenye yobuso kuphela: Amehlo, amashiya, ikhala nomlomo, konke azungeze umngcele ukuze ngibukeke njengomphumuli. Kepha kufudumele.
Vele, ibhodi. Isikhathi eside kwesinye nesigamu futhi ushaywe ngokuqinile. Ubolekele uzakwabo ogama lakhe nguMariya, futhi washiya umyeni wakhe wangaphambili, osejele manje, eSacramento. Naphezu kwejele kanye ne-Sacramento, ukusuka lapho kukhona khona ukugibela olwandle, wabiza uMariya wathi uzothatha iBhodi ngethuba lokuqala. Umthandi wangempela.
USerf unentambo, ebizwa nge- "Leash". Ihlelwe kwi-ankle Texteile Velcro, ukuze ibhodi lingabhukudi, uma igagasi lakho ndawo thile likhishwe - liyenzeka njalo. Ibhodi kufanele ligcotshwe i-wax ukuze ingasheleli. I-wax ithengiswa ngabahlanza abajikelezayo njengensipho. Odume kakhulu ibizwa ngokuthi "ubulili bax" futhi ngiyaqonda ukuthi kungani.
Ibhodi liyafana nowesifazane: Ngenkathi ulishayela olwandle, linamathela kuwe kuzo zonke izikhathi, lapho uzokulamba ngokuqinile amahora amaningi nesigamu, futhi uzokulahla nganoma yisiphi isikhathi esibi ukunyakaza.
Phuma eyodwa kuphela - thola ibhalansi. Shesha kancane, ukungaqiniseki noma ukwethuka - fafaza amanzi anosawoti. Ngemuva kokuqala, akuphumelelanga, imizamo yokwehlisa umoya bese uqala ukuthatha ama-surfing we-Zen. Ungukuthi akunakwenzeka ukuxabana. Vele ubulale injabulo. Futhi ngukuthi unikeze ulwandle ngawakho. Cisha imicabango ngomhlaba wangaphandle, kube sengathi kukhona esikhaleni noma esibelethweni somama. Ukuya kwi-capsule ekhethekile lapho imicabango ingafinyeleli eziteshini zikagesi, ukuhlelwa kwebhizinisi nokuwa kwe-concgedence.
Ngivuka ngo-5.45 ekuseni. Ngifuna ukufika ku "Okwesine Mile Beach" ngesigamu sesikhombisa - kufanele kube nokuncane okuncane. Ngezinye izinsuku ngivuka cishe ngengxenye yesishiyagalolunye. Lapho umphefumulo wami ekugcineni ufika emzimbeni, udonsela ubuso namashiya, amabhulukwe kanye ne-cap. Ngibukeka njengesakhamuzi kuzo. Futhi namhlanje ukukhahlela eWutsuit ngomgodi omncane, lapho, kubonakala sengathi, akuveli ngisho nekhanda, kepha kunwetshwa ngekhanda ngokuyisimangaliso futhi lapha selufana nemodeli evela kumagazini we-latex Pervert.
Ukusa isikhathi esifanele kunazo zonke seWetsuit, ekuseni ngisenalo uhlobo lomuntu. Ngisusa ama-sneaker emlenzeni kaBosu, bamba isigqoko senjoloba, amagilavu kanye nama-bots bese ufaka esikhwameni esimnyama udoti, ithawula kanye ne-wax indiza lapho. Ibhodi lisekamelweni lokugcina, lahlanganiswa phakathi kodonga nomshini wokuwasha, njengomqondo womoya wamahhala ophikweni lwempilo.
Imizuzu emihlanu eKabarovo-Highway, imizuzu eyishumi ku-Mishn Street ngesivinini se-catatal, kanti imizuzu emihlanu kwinombolo yomgwaqo omkhulu 1, kukhona amasimu elethisi kanye ne-whitewash strip ye-surf kanye ne-whitewash ye-surf. Ilanga lizovuka lisuka emzuzwini kuya kuMzuzu. Ngakwesobunxele zezindlu eziluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka ezibekwe emapulazini, lokhu kuwuphawu: Ithuba elilandelayo lingeyami.
Ukupaka eduze kwendlela esuka. Ulwandle lufinyelelwa lapha ngeminwe ebandayo. Utshani ngamazolo, u-Breezelling, njengoShilo, abafana ababili be-Ford Pickup balula izingubo nezindwangu kusuka kubanda. Badidekile izinwele futhi bakhunjulwa ebusweni bokulala.
"YINI UMSEBENZI, Mfowethu," kubuza omunye ngemishini.
Ngiyaphendula: "Konke kudala," ngiyaphendula, futhi siyaqhubeka ngamunye. "
Ngidonsa ama-bots, ngikhiphe i-sirf bese ngiyihlikihla emphefumulweni nge-wax. Ibhodi lindizela otshanini; Ngibeka amagilavu esihlambi esihlolweni bese ngivala imoto. Isihluthulelo esinjalo esudini, eduze ne-ankle ukuze ungalahli. Nge-Blackboard ngaphansi kwengalo nesigqoko esandleni sakhe ngihamba ngendlela ebheke olwandle.
Ilanga liyaphuma. Izimpukane zasekuseni njenge-euphoria etshwala. Umgwaqo wehlela ebhishi, echibini ledada elifanele ne-beytails. Isihlabathi eSanta Cruz yi-manus encane futhi singena yonke indawo njengesifo. Ulwandle lunokubukeka okungabhaliwe.
Emithanjeni yesine ihlala igagasi. Ku-kettle, kubonakala ngami ukuthi akuyona indawo enhle kunazo zonke. Emanzini kunezikhala ezivele ezibonakalayo, ezimbozwe ngerabha. Noma nini lapho uthatha isinqumo sokugibela, uzohlala unenkampani. Kubukeka sengathi, ngivuka ngehora lesithathu ekuseni ngenyanga egcwele bese ngifika emayelani yesine, ezintathu-ezine zizobe zisemabhodini ezikhwameni zokulala, ukuze zingaphuthelwa indawo.
Namuhla, ngabayisithupha abangamashumi amathathu, sebekhona abayisishiyagalombili emanzini, futhi abajabule kimi nhlobo. Ama-surfers avikela insimu njengama-skunks - uze ubonise ubuqotho bakho, uzokugcotshwa futhi ukhathazeke ngesiphambano ngasinye. Ukubekezela.
Ngiya edolweni lami, ngisakaza ama-noodle of laseLamia. Amanzi eqhwa aqala abe yi-bots, njengesela, afike e-groin. Igagasi lokuqala ligxilisa esiswini, elinye lifaka ohlangothini lwesobunxele, lizama ukugoqa ezandleni ze-sirf. Siphonsa ibhodi emanzini, sisheshise futhi sinciphise phansi phezu kwaso, manje kuyadingeka ukushesha ukushelela nge-surf, kungqongqoza ukucisha umkhuhlane.
Ngithatha imilenze yami ukuze ngingenzeki emanzini, futhi ngishaye, iBhodi ligibela ikamu bese lishaya igagasi ngemuva. Into esemqoka ukuhlala kancane ohlangothini, eduze nasekuqaleni kwegagasi. Zonke izindawo ezinhle kakhulu sezivele zihlanganyele kwasendaweni, ngeke zize emhlabeni ngeke zilele.
Ngihlala ebhodini, amanzi agcwalisa imvunulo engaphakathi futhi afudunyezwa kancane ngokushisa komzimba. Ngibona ukuthi igagasi elingamamitha amabili liphakamisa kanjani imizimba emnyama, izandla ezimbili ezibunjiwe, igama elithi mill - amaphiko, umuntu aphansi futhi ajika. Umzuzu wesibili ugxumela kwi-sirf bese ubeka inguquko kwesokudla naphansi, ecashelwe umzuzwana kusuka ezinhlotsheni, kepha ngokushesha aqhamuke egwini. Uthuli lwamanzi lundizela ebusweni bakhe, lishubile, njengodokotela ohlinzayo.
Ngemuva kwegagasi libukeka libi kakhulu kunangaphambili, izindebe zalo ezinkulu ezibonakalayo zimboza i-silhouette emnyama, kodwa ngaso sonke isikhathi lapho indoda isindisa ngokuyisimangaliso, njenge-whale ion. I-surf ngokungabonakali ingiphoqelela ogwini njengendodana engavumi. Ukuwela ebhodini nasekuhlolweni lapho, lapho kugoqwa khona amagagasi emanzini abandayo afayo.
Ngilinde lowo ozongikhulisa, kepha ngeke amboze. Igagasi liyakhula, ngiyalinganisa, ngihlale ebusweni bakhe, ngiphenduka kakhulu ikhulu namashumi ayisishiyagalombili, ngiwe epulasitiki nobisi lokuthi kukhona umoya ngezandla nemilenze. Umuzwa Wezingane Wokuxoshwa uthumba ngokuphelele: Kungathi ngigijimela kwi-monster esunguliwe, ngijaha ukwesaba nokuhleka ngasikhathi sinye, ngingakwazi umhlane wami. Igagasi e-vmig liphonsa ibhodi. Ngicindezela izandla zakho ngivuke ngedolo elilodwa, amanzi agcwele kimi ikhola, njengekati, umzamo omubi ngiyakhuphuka futhi ngiwalinganise, kubonakala sengathi ngihamba ngijabule.
Namhlanje ekuseni uzohluka kakhulu. Kathathu ngizokwehla ebhodini futhi ngimboze kabili. Uma kwenzeka, kufanele uguqukele ku-bud of the umbungu futhi unethemba lokuthi ungawashayi amazinyo akho noma ngeke ushaye phansi amadwala.
Umzimba wami, uPea, ongena ngaphansi, ugobe, undiza emanzini, bese welula ukuvusa, ibhodi lingidonsela i-ankle, njengenja. Ngiphuma ngibuke, noma ngabe igagasi elilandelayo likude. Esiswini samanzi anamathala anamabili, ezindlebeni zokukhala. Ngazinika emazinyweni ami.
Ngemuva kwehora, ngiphuma emanzini, ngizizwe ngiyi-cosmonaut ebuya e-orbit. IBHODI ELIQHAWULEKILE, IBHODI LOKUQHAWULA EMHLABENI. Ukudambisa isudi, kunemizuzu eyishumi yokukhipha irabha ngeminwe eyinqaba, iqhwa, njenge-pasta kusuka esiqandisini.
Ibhodi likhuphuka phakathi kodonga nomshini wokuwasha. Isudi, i-bots, amagilavu kanye ne-cap hang egumbini lokugezela kuze kube yilapho zithunga. Ngimi ngaphansi kwejethi yamanzi futhi ngizwa sengathi iminwe yalimaza kanjani, lapho igazi libuya khona.
Lolu uhlobo olukhethekile lwenjabulo. Lesi yisikhathi lapho ungadingi ukucabanga nganoma yini ngaphandle kwalokhu - leli wave noma elilandelayo? Isikhathi sidliwe yindawo yonke. Le nto ikusula ne-enema okubi kakhulu. Umuntu okungenani empilweni yakhe wayemi ebhodini, akasoze afana - unalo olwandle, indawo yokuhlala, ama-cosmos. Lapho ulindile futhi ethandwa.
Umbhalo Umbhali: Kohl Sulima