I-Retinol Derivetives, kunye nokugcina i-retizol ngokwakhe njengenxalenye ye-cosmetics iyakwazi ukwenza imimangaliso yenyani, kodwa banabalandeli abaneleyo kunye nabathiyayo. Ngelixa umntu enoncedo lwabo lokuhlangula ukusuka kwi-wrinkles kunye ne-pigmentation inyangwa ukusuka kwi-acne kwaye kwandise i-elaistity ye-dermis, abanye bafumana ukona, i-dermatiti kunye nezinye iimpendulo ezingalindelekanga kulusu.
Ungayisebenzisa njani le nto intle kwaye kwangaxeshanye into eyingozi kunye nento ekufuneka uyazi ngayo - ndixelele kweli nqaku.
Nguwuphi umahluko phakathi kwe-retinol kunye ne-retinoids?
Ababhali beempapasho bahlala bedideka kwi-firimology kwaye i-retinoids bahlala bebizwa rhoqo, kwaye kusekhona umahluko phakathi kwabo. I-retizol yi-vitamin eyaziwayo ye-vitamin a (i-acincial acid). Kwaye i-retinoides ingama-ensid yale acid. Beka nje, i-retinoids i-retinol i-retinol i-tendol ngokungcola. Kwinqanaba leselula, kuyinto ephinda-phinda i-acid enokuthi idibanise ii-receptors zeseli zesikhumba kwaye zibe negalelo emsebenzini wabo njengobutsha.I-retinoids kufuneka ifakwe kwinani lenguqu ukuze ibe yi-acinoc acid kunye nezinye ezi zinguqu, ukusebenza okuncinci kusebenza. Ukuqukumbela, kumzabalazo wobuhle, ukusetyenziswa kweVitamin A kulunge ngakumbi, kodwa akusoloko kufanelekile ukukhetha, kodwa kamva kamva.
Sebenzisa i-cosmetics
Izibonelelo zeVitamin A ukuze umzimba waziwa ixesha elide, kodwa inyani yokuba inokusetyenziswa kwi-cosmetology ifundile ngokuvakalayo. Embindini wenkulungwane yama-20, umsebenzi wokuqala wapapashwa, owenza isiphumo esihle sevithamini kulusu olubandezeleka. Kwaye yongeza i-resolin kwi-cosmetics kuphela kwiminyaka eli-16 emva koko.
Xa i-retizol yayisetyenziselwa ukunyanga i-acne rashes, baphawula ukuba icothise kakhulu iinkqubo zokugugaka kolusu kwaye inceda ukulwa neempawu ezisele zibonakale. Ke iikhrim zokuqala zavela ekubusweni kunye ne-retizol.
Umgaqo wokusebenzisana nolusu
IVitamin A kunye nezahlulo zayo ziyakhawuleza ziye kwi-Opper, kodwa kwi-Dermis, oko kukuthi, ukuphendula i-acne kunye ne-Wrinkles, iyonke inani lilonke lexabiso. Malunga neepesenti ezingama-75 zento eseleyo kumphezulu wolusu kwaye ezinye zazo zisenziwa imetaboltad. Ke, uPerewol ungena kwikheji, kwaye aqale umsebenzi wakhe:- Iphelisa i-pitaling ebizelweyo. I-retisol iphinda ihlawulwe ngokukhawuleza ngee-keratinocyte kunye neqela leenyembezi kunye nemiyalezo, ebangelwa yi-pig. I-tander etshabalalisiweyo ayisakwazi ukwenza umbala omnyama njengangaphambili, ke ulusu luye lukhanyise ngakumbi kwaye nangaphezulu.
- I-retinol isusa ulusu olomileyo. I-Keratiocytes ithatha inxaxheba apha, nto leyo ngenxa ye-retinic acid ivuthiwe ngokukhawuleza kwaye ikhawuleze ikhutshelwe iinkqubo zokuvuselela kolusu.
- I-finkles entle kunye nephakathi ye-wrinkles ziyapheliswa. I-retizol inegalelo kuphuhliso lwe-collagen kwaye inceda ulusu ukulibazisa umswakama, enkosi ekucocekeni kwesikhumba kwaye icocekile.
Uninzi lukhona nalo mbuzo-yeyiphi i-vitamin esebenza ngcono, yenzelwe indalo? Ewe, kwendalo, kodwa ... Zonke i-retinoids zinepropathi yokuwa phantsi kwempembelelo ye-ultraviolet, kwaye ezinye zazo zingaguqulwa zibe ziityhefu. Ke ngoko, ukuba iziyobisi ezinezinto zendalo zisetyenziswa ekukhathaleni, kufuneka zisetyenziswe kulusu ngokuhlwa.
Kodwa ilanga elinokwenziwa aloyiki, ngaphandle, amanqanaba otshintsho kwi-acinou acid ancitshiswe kakhulu. Ilandela kule nto ubuncinci i-vitamin yendalo kwaye ngokufanelekileyo, i-analogue yayo yokwenziwa kukhuselekile.
Indlela yokusebenzisa i-retinoids
Kufanelekile ukukhumbula ukuba lonke ulusu lusabela kwi-retinol ngendlela yayo, ukuze kungabikho ziphumo zeziyobisi - okokuqala ngqa usebenzisa ulusu ngale nto hayi Ngaphezulu kweveki nje, uparallel kwimpendulo. Khumbula ukuba kufuneka usebenzise izithambiso ezinjalo ngokuhlwa.
Ukuba ulusu luphendula kwi-reinol eqhelekileyo, ukuphosa kunye nokucaphukisa, unokuya ekusebenziseni izihlandlo ezithathu ngeveki. Kwaye emva kokuba ulusu ekugqibeleni luqhelane, i-retinol inokusetyenziswa kukhathalelo lwemihla ngemihla.
Ukunciphisa ithuba lokuphila kokubonakala kobomvu kunye nezinye iimpawu ezingathandekiyo, kwinqanaba lokuqala leVitamin kungcono ukuxuba kunye neoyile engathathi hlangothi okanye ngeekhrim. Kodwa ukuba ayincedi, kwaye ulusu oluya kuvithamin lusalele kunye nokudakumba okanye ukubomvu, i-acid ye-acid ye-hygaric iya kunceda ukususa iimpawu ezingathandekiyo.
Kwaye, nokufaka isicelo kulo lonke ulusu, kufanelekile ukuthintela iindawo ngeendawo ezijikeleze amehlo kunye nomda kufutshane nemilebe. Faka isicelo se-vitamin kwindawo yolusu, kwaye emva koko ucocekile ukuhambisa bonke ubuso.
Iinyani ezixabisekileyo malunga ne-retinoids kunye ne-retinol
- Iarhente esemgangathweni eshiya i-remol isebenzisa imiyalelo eneenkcukacha ngaphakathi kokupakisha ngolwazi malunga nokulungiselela kunye nendlela yokusebenzisa ngayo. Ukuba ulwazi oluphantsi lulahlekile, ke, ubukrelekrele kakhulu, apho i-recinol ikwigama, kwaye inani layo ngeendlela zendlela incinci.
- Ukuba kukho isidingo sokusebenzisa i-remool ngexesha lemini, emva koko khetha iindidi zokwenziwa kweevithamini, uyisebenzisa kwitandem ene-crims kunye nokhuseleko lwe-UV.
- I-retizol ayinabuhlobo neVitamin C, ivimba inyathelo elinye kwaye akuyi kubakho mpembelelo kwisicelo sabo sokudibana. Okwangoku, "Yenza ukuba abahlobo" kwezi ntshaba ze-winung baphumelela kuphela ngophawu lwe-cosmetic enye - i-sesderma kunokuba iqhayisa apho.
- Faka isicelo se-retinoids kunye ne-retinol ngononophelo ukuze uqhubeke rhoqo kwaye ixesha elide.
- Ukuba awukasebenzisi mali ngaphambili, ebezicinezelekile okanye i-revitives, emva koko uthenge isixhobo sokuqala kungcono kunokuba umxholo wezinto ezisebenzayo uncinane, malunga ne-0.1%.
- I-chars ye-cosmetics ye-cosmetics yenza ukuba imvakalelo yokuthenga kuphela ukuba ukwakhiwa kubandakanya kuphela ivithamini evuthiweyo. Ngaphandle koko, kuya kukhawuleza inyamalale kwinyani kwaye akuyi kubakho mfuneko kuye.