Belarusian yakapusa-American Guy Kolya Sulima anotaurira izvo zvinotaridzika zvinotaridzika. Zvinoratidzika zvakanyanya kune zvese zverudo.
Wetsuit ndakatenga ndisina kukodzera patakafambisa kutenderera guta nekutsvaga fenicha. Akanditorera makumi matatu. Ini handisati ndatenda kuti yakauya, mushure mezvose, kutengwa kwemvura inonyorova - chibereko chinotyisa - chibereko chinotyisa: Fungidzira kuti iwe unoda katatu kana kana kana kana chipi zvacho chiri mumbanda yepedyo, inopisa. Wobva wabuda kunze.
Kuwedzera kune bhutsu uye chipfeko, ndichine ngowani ine visor pfupi, zvakare, kubva pariorezine. Anongovhura chikamu chete chechiso: maziso, maziso, mhino uye muromo, zvese zvakanyatso kutenderera perimeter kuti nditaridzika se crucian. Asi mairi inodziya.
Ehe, bhodhi. Kureba mune imwe nehafu uye kwakarohwa zvakasimba. Akabvisa wandaishanda naye, iye Maria, uye iye aimbove murume wake, iye zvino ari mutirongo, muSacramento. Pasinei nejeri neSacramento, kubva kunobva kune maviri anotasvaira kugungwa, akadana Mariya uye akataura kuti aizoitora bhodhi pamukana wekutanga. Chaicho kufarira.
Serf ine tambo, inonzi "leash". Izvo zvakagadzirirwa kuAnkle Techle Velcro, zvekuti bhodhi harishivhiri, kana mafungu ako pane imwe nzvimbo achirwirwa - zvinoitika nguva dzose. Bhodhi rinofanira kunge rakanyungudika wax kuti irege kutsvedza. Wax inotengeswa nematombo ashers sesipo. Akakurumbira anonzi "bonde wax" uye ini ndinonzwisisa chikonzero nei.
Iyo bhodhi yakafanana nemukadzi: Paunenge uchimhanyisa kugungwa, anokunamatira pane imwe neimwe nguva, achidzivirira nhau, ipapo iwe uchambundira maawa imwe nehafu, uye iye anofanira kukurasa iwe neyakawoneka kufamba.
Buda chete - tsvaga chiyero. Kunyanya kukurumidza, kusava nechokwadi kana kutya - sasa mvura munyu. Mushure mekutanga, isina kubudirira, inoedza iwe kudzikama uye kutanga kutora zen surfing. Ndiye kuti hazvibviri kupokana. Ingouraya mafaro. Uye ndezvekuti iwe unopa gungwa zvakazviputira. Dzima pfungwa pamusoro penyika yekunze, sekunge yaive munzvimbo kana mudumbu remushinke. Kuenda kune yakakosha kapu uko pfungwa dzisingasvike zvidimbu zvemagetsi, bhizinesi kuronga uye kudonha kwekutendeuka.
Ndinosimuka pa5,45 mangwanani. Ini ndinoda kusvika kune "Miler File Beach" nehafu yechinomwe - panofanirwa kunge paine sporfer surfer. Pane mamwe mazuva ndinomuka inenge hafu yechipfumbamwe. Kana mweya wangu pakupedzisira wasvika kumuviri, uchidhonza kumeso nemaziso, madhiri uye cap. Ini ndinotaridzika kunge mugari mavari. Uye nhasi anokambaira muWetsuit kuburikidza negomba rakamanikana, uko, zvinoita, haripfuuri, asi rinotambanudzwa nenzira inoshamisa uye pano ndatofanana nemuenzaniso kubva mumagazini yeanonoka.
Mangwanani ndiyo nguva yakakodzera yeWetsuit, mangwanani ndichine chimiro chemunhu. Ini ndinotsvaga ma sneaker pagumbo reBosu, bata ngowani yebhuruu, magurovhosi uye bots uye anovhuna muhomwe nhema yemarara, tauro uye wax ari kubhururuka ipapo. Bhodhi riri mukamuri rekuchengetera, sandwiwiced pakati pemadziro uye muchina wekuwachekwa, sekufungidzira kweMweya wemahara mune vice yehupenyu.
Maminitsi mashanu paKabharovo-Highway, maminitsi gumi paMishn Street pakumhanya kwechikadzi, uye maminitsi mashanu pane Highway nhamba 1, kune minda yeLettuce uye chena tambo ye surf. Zuva richabuda kubva paminiti kusvika kuminiti. Kuruboshwe rwebhuruu kwakatiswa dzimba dzemapurazi, ichi chiratidzo: Iyo inotevera tendeuka ndeyangu.
Kupaka padhuze nenzira ichisiya. Iyo gungwa rinosvikidzwa pano neminwe inotonhorera. Grass muDew, mhepo inovhuvhuta, seShiro, maviri eFord pickup vakomana vanotambanudza zvipfeko nemachira kubva kuchitonhora. Vane bvudzi rakavhiringidzika uye vakarangarirwa kubva pakurara kumeso.
"Ndeapi mabasa, hama," imwe inobvunza muchero.
"Zvese zvinhu zvekare," ndinopindura, uye tinopfuurira. "
Ini ndinodhonza bots, dhonza iyo Sirf uye ndinoburitsa kubva kumweya ne wax. Bhodhi rinobhururuka muuswa; Ndakaisa magurovhosi mu ngowani uye kuvhara mota. Kiyi yakadaro mune sutu, padyo nehukure kuti usarase. Nebhodhi dema pasi poruoko nengowani muruoko rwake ndinoenda nenzira yakananga kugungwa.
Zuva rinobuda. Mangwanani anobhururuka kunge doro euphoria. Nzira inoenda pasi kumahombekombe, kurudyi dhata dziva uye beytails. Jecha muSanta Cruz idiki manzwiro uye anopinda chero pasi rese sedenda. Gungwa rine chitarisiko chisina musoro.
Pamamita echina anogara achigara. Nekuti keteni, zvinoita senge iri ini haisi nzvimbo yakanaka kwazvo. Mumvura imomo imatove spins dzinoonekwa, dzakafukidzwa neRabha. Pese paunofunga kukwira, uchagara uine kambani. Zvinoita sekuti, ndinomuka kumaawa matatu mangwanani nemwedzi uzere uye kusvika kumakiromita mana, matatu-mana zvichadaro pamapuranga mumabhegi ekurara, kuti arege kupotsa nzvimbo.
Nhasi, pamakumi matatu, pane vasere mumvura, uye havafari kwandiri zvachose. Surfers inochengetedza ndima seyunks - kusvikira iwe waratidza kuvimbika kwako, uchave mwero nekutambudzwa nemuchinjikwa wega wega. Kutsungirira.
Ini ndinopfugama pabvi rangu, ndinoparadzira noodles dzeLamauaria. Ice yemvura inotarisa mumabhuru, sembavha, uye anowana kugomba. Iyo yekutanga wave inosundira mudumbu, imwe yacho inopinda kuruboshwe, ichiedza kubhururuka kubva mumaoko eSirf. Isu tinokanda bhodhi pamusoro pemvura, simudza uye todzikira pariri, ikozvino zvinodikanwa kuti tirege kutadza kutsvedza ne surf, kugogodza kuti ndibate fivha.
Ini ndinotora makumbo angu kuti ndisatungamirira mumvura, uye kupukuta, bhodhi rinodzika mukati memusango uye richimanikidza mafungu kumashure. Chinhu chikuru ndechekugara zvishoma padivi, padhuze nekutanga kwemafungu. Nzvimbo dzese dzakanakisa dzakatove dzakatoita mumuno, kwete munyika havazovete.
Ini ndinogara mubhodhi, mvura yakazadza chipfeko kubva mukati uye inodziya zvishoma nezvishoma nekupisa kwemuviri. Ndiri kuona kuti mita maviri-met mets inowedzera mitumbi dema, maoko maviri akasungwa, iro ripi zvaro - mapapiro, mumwe akaderera uye anotendeuka. Iyo yechipiri nguva inosvetuka pane iyo sirf uye inovanda tende kurudyi uye pasi, ichihwanda kwechipiri kubva kumarudzi, asi pakarepo arikupamhi pane gidhi. Mvura guruva inobhururuka pamberi pechiso chake, yakaoma, seanovhiya.
Kumashure kwemafuro anotaridzika kunge anotyisa kupfuura pamberi pesimba, gway rayo rinoputika rinofukidza silhouette dema, asi nguva imwe neimwe murume anoponesa, kunge whale ion. Iyo surf ins is is is is is is is is me kumahombekombe seMwanakomana asingadiwi. Kudonha pabhodhi uye kukanda ipapo, pane mafungu ari pasi kubva mumvura inofa inotonhora.
Ndakamirira uyo unondimutsa, asi haazovhara. Mafungu anokura, ini ndichienda kumeso, ndakagara pamberi pechiso chake, ndichitendeuka nemazana zana nemakumi masere, ikawira mupurasitiki uye mukaka kuti kune mweya nemaoko nemakumbo. Kunzwa kwevana kwekudzingirira kunondirova zvachose: sekunge ndakamhanya kubva pane yakagadzirwa monster, kudzingirira pakutya nekuseka panguva imwe chete, ndisingazive zvakadini. Wave muVMIG inokanda bhodhi. Ndiri kusundira maoko ako uye kusimuka pane rimwe broze, mvura izere neni yekokoti, sekati, saizi inotyisa yandinenge ndichikwira uye ndichiita kuti ndiri kuenda kunakidzwa.
Mangwanani ano achasiyana zvakanyanya. Katatu ndichadonha kubva kubhodhi uye ndichafukidza kaviri. Kana zvikaitika, iwe unofanirwa kushandura kuva bhuruu yehumambo uye tariro yekuti hausi kurova mazino ako kana kuti haazorova iyo dombo pasi.
Muviri wangu, zvishoma pea, kupunzika, inobhururuka mumvura, osvitsa leash, uye bhodhi inodhonza mbichana, sembwa. Ini ndinobuda uye ndakatarisa, kunyangwe iyo inotevera wave iri kure. Mudumbu rehafu-litred mvura, munzeve dzekurira. Ndakazvipa pameno angu mabvi angu.
Awa gare gare, ini ndinobuda mumvura, ndichinzwa ndichiri kunzwa colost yakadzoka kubva kune orbit. Rakaparadzwa, Waistball Bhodhi Kumotokari. Kuti ubate sutu, kune maminetsi gumi ekubvarura rubber neminwe inoshamisa, ice, se pasta kubva kufiriji.
Bhodhi rinosimuka pakati pemadziro uye muchina wekuwachisa. Sutu, bots, magurovhosi uye cap inorembera mubhavhu kusvikira vamira. Ini ndinomira pasi pejet yemvura uye ndakanzwa kuti zvigunwe zvangu zvinorwadza sei, umo ropa rinodzoka.
Urwu ndirwo rudzi runoshamisa rwemufaro. Ino inguva iyo iwe yausingade kufunga nezve chero chinhu kunze kwekunge - iyi wave kana inotevera? Nguva yakashongedzwa nechadenga. Ichi chinhu chinokubvisa iwe hapana zvakaomera enhema. Munhu anenge ari muhupenyu hwake akange amire pabhodhi, haazombove akafanana - ane yake yegungwa, pekugara, cosmos. Ikoko akamirira uye anodiwa.
Mavara Aumeri: Kohl Sulima