"Kuzama Kwambiri" ndi mawu oti patapita zaka zambiri amasangalala ndi malingaliro a amuna ndipo amachititsa kaduka mwa akazi. Mutha kudziwana ndi izi m'njira zosiyanasiyana, koma palibe amene anganene kuti mu magawo ambiri a m'mbiri iyi "Zowonjezera" zidatenga gawo lake lofunikira.
Zikutanthauza chiyani?
Kuchokera pachilankhulo cha Chifalansa, mawu akuti "Décolleté" ali ndi matembenuzidwe enieni omasulira "ndi khosi lodula" kapena "wopanda khosi." Koma sikofunikira kuti mumvetsetse iye mwa lingaliro lenileni, chifukwa zimangokhala zinthu zokha za zovala zachikazi. Khothi limasungunula pamwamba pa zovala za mkazi, zomwe zimatsegulidwa pamapewa ake, pachifuwa kapena mbali zonse ziwiri.Ngati timalankhula za kugwiritsa ntchito khosi ndi tanthauzo lake, ndiye malingaliro a kukongola kwa thupi, zopatsa chidwi, erotica ndi kupweteka zimachokera.
Momwe zonse zidayamba ...
Ngakhale kuti decollet (yomwe ikumvetsetsa mawuwa) a zaka za XIV, "njira" yolemetsa ndi azimayi adayamba kugwiritsidwa ntchito ku Egypt. Mu Ardique iyi, azimayi a magawo onse a Society anali madiresi a Calaziris, pafupifupi kuyankhula kwathunthu. Kwa dziko lotukuka, komwe "ntchito yayikulu padziko lapansi" siyikhalapo, kugwiritsa ntchito zotere.
Kuti mulembetse bwino pakhosi kwa akazi zovala, mawu oti "khosi" adayamba ku Europe. Mavalidwe okhala ndi khosi lomwe limagwiritsidwa ntchito limodzi ndi makhothi a mfumukazi ya ku France ndi mkazi wa Charles VI Minsne SIYANAIN - Isabella Bavarian. Izi, boma losaoneka silinakonda anthu chifukwa cha moyo wake wolumala komanso wowononga. Koma ndi Isabelle, khosi linali ndi mawonekedwe owoneka bwino. Unali mawonekedwe akona ndikutsegula malo ochepa a thupi, pansi pa khosi ndi pamwamba kumbuyo.
Kwa zaka zingapo zotsatira, kukula kwa azimayi aku French kumawonjezeka pang'ono, pomwe Agnes Sorel, mfumu wokondedwa wa France Karl VII ndipo sanachite khungu pachifuwa konse. Mwa mawonekedwe aka, zidawonekera pa kulapa kwake, kutenga nawo gawo ku Balar ndi Phwando. Pafupifupi magulu onse a makhoriwo komanso akazi abwino amathandizira Agnes, kuvala kavalidwe kake.
Khosi mu nthawi ya Renaissance
M'nthawi ya Renaissance mafashoni oseketsa pang'onopang'ono anasamukira kumayiko ena ku Europe. Mwachitsanzo, ku Italy (mizinda yosiyanasiyana), "zokongola zodziwika bwino komanso zokongola zaluso za Bordja, Simotetta VespucI ndi ena.
Chosangalatsa ndichakuti, Spain yamenya nkhondoyo mpaka kumapeto kwa khosi. Atsogoleri achipembedzo ankasefedwa pano ndipo nthawi ina atavala supu yapamwamba pamavalidwe ake anali oletsedwa. Kuti muchepetse chitetezo chambiri, zolimba zokhala ndi zolimba zimayamba kuvala.
Munthawi kuchokera ku XV kupita ku XVII, nthumwi za mabwalo ambiri aku Europe zidayesedwa ndi njira zokongoletsera zovala za akazi pachifuwa. Panali mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya "Windows" (anali kuvalidwa ndi Ekaterina Medici), ndi masitima a rectanzalar adapangidwa ndi ma mbiya (omaliza) mfumukazi ya French a Marzabeth I).
Panthawi ya zaka za zana lankhondo (1715-1770), malo ofesawo adatengedwa ndi azimayi onse ku Europe okha, komanso mu ufumu wa Russia. Amatha kuphatikizidwa ndi mitundu yonse ya zokongoletsera, kuyambira mitundu ndikutha ndi mauta. Nthawi ino, yomwe imadziwika ndi kukula kwazinthu zongosangalatsa, "zachisangalalo", ulemu ndi chisomo.
Onetsani pamwamba pa bere la mkazi amalizidwa kuti alemekezedwe. Izi zimatsimikiziridwa ndi zojambula zambiri za mikango yadziko lapansi. Zinali mu zaka za XVII zaka za XVII kuti E'chiri Elizabeth I Petrovna ndi Katherine II, zomwe, wopanda nkhawa kwambiri komanso zowawa sizinatenthedwe pampando wa Russia.
Osati kwa onse
M'zaka za XIX, Bourgeois amakonda kugonjetsedwa. Defolley adavala mosavuta, makamaka komanso kutengera nthawi ya tsiku.
Ngati tsiku lomwe mkazi adavala zovala zotsekedwa, ndiye kuti madzulo tsikulo litha kuvala diresi ndi khosi. Pakadali pano, kamvekedwe kanthawi ka rassali, Edanar Duza, Sarah Bernard, LARTRE ndi ena.
Nanga bwanji za kholo lero?
Chidwi chapadera chimayenera zaka za XX ndi nthawi yatsopano. Kuyambira chiyambi cha zaka zana zapitazo, mafashoni sanasinthe ma vesi awo. Nkhondo yoyamba ndi yachiwiri padziko lonse lapansi nkhondo zimakhudza kwambiri. M'chifumu za Ufumu wa ku Russia, kutchuka kwa khosi kunakulira kwa omwe sanachitike, koma nthawi yomweyo "adatuluka" pomwe boma lidachitika.
Pang'onopang'ono ma corsets adasiya kugwiritsidwa ntchito ndi ma bras omwe amalola azimayi kuti avale madiresi onse. Icho chinali chiyambi cha izi kugonana. Kudula madiresi a akazi, kenako ndikusintha malowo, atachoka pachifuwa chake kumbuyo ndi mosemphanitsa.
Chisamaliro chidalumikizidwa ndi kunyamula mu 50s ndi 1980s, pomwe makampani a filimuyo anali akupanga mopitirira muyeso. Mavalidwe okhala ndi demoltete amavala mariyen Monroe, Madonre, Ornell Mut, Jane Russell, Sophie Loren, Gina Lollobrid, Guidget Bardo ndi ena ambiri.
Kumapeto kwa zaka za zana la 20, pali demokalase yogwiritsa ntchito khosi. Mavalidwe oterewa ndi azimayi amakono amavala, akukankha kuchokera ku zinthu komanso zolinga zina.
Khothi lasanduka dothi lopanda pake. Koma panali m'mbiri yonse ndi zochitika zina zowopsa zomwe zimabweretsa mafashoni.